28 posts tagged “tokyo”

Everything is packed and on its way to Chicago.  I spent the majority of my last week in Japan outside of Tokyo visiting Kyoto.  Sadly, I discovered a little too late that Kyoto is simply one of the best places to spend time wandering and looking at old temples, shrines and buildings.  There is also an abundance of tourists for comic relief.  Although it rained the entire time I was there, it did little to diminish my opinion of the city.  I lament not being able to go back for a long weekend because I am already half a world away.

I also had dinner at Eat more Greens for my last night in Tokyo.  I'll miss the great food and the friendly staff.  Even though my Japanese was never sophisticated enough to say little more than "thank you" and "look at the full moon", they made me feel very welcome the numerous times I had meals there.  I invited them to visit me in Chicago any time they found themselves in the USA.

On my last night, I walked through my neighborhood and reflected on the convenience of it.  I had a 5 minute commute.  A grocery store was 3 minutes away.  When I didn't have plans, I spent my weekend nights reading in the outdoor seating area of Tsutaya just across the street from my apartment, a fantastic place for people watching if nothing else.  Other than my dreadful work schedule, I had it pretty good.

Since I gave up my apartment, I spent my last night at the Conrad, the hotel where I lived my first 5 months.  It was nice to see a few familiar faces though I was surprised at the amount of turn-over.  In the morning, before getting on the bus to the airport, I walked around the area (Shiodome & Hamamatsucho) of my original office.  Similar to my neighborhood in Chicago, it is very quiet on weekends as it is located primarily in a business district.

It has been a long time coming.  The working conditions with my current employer have been unbearable since late last year.  Surely there was something better out there...and so there is.  I've accepted a position with a new firm but unfortunately it will force me to leave Tokyo for Chicago.

I quickly fell in love with the quirkiness and dynamism of Tokyo.  The city was clean and safe.  The people were kind and polite.  The food was delicious, though sometimes unidentifiable.  Because of the demand work placed on my time, I made few friends but because I am a creature of routine, I developed pseudo-relationships with the gym staff, the apartment building staff, the staff at the Conrad hotel and the staff and Eat More Greens.  I was able to join a few of them for social outings when time permitted.  What gave me a true sense of home was when I would happen across one them on the street and be greeted enthusiastically with genuine camaraderie.  Most of them could not speak English, but they were tolerant of my deplorable Japanese and always had patience while I cobbled phrases together with dictionary in hand.

On my last day at Eat More Greens, my favorite hostess gave me vegan cashew nut cookies to take back with me.  I will miss comfort of their patio and the kindness of their staff most of all.  During my last business trip to Chicago, I brought them Frango mints from Macy's (Marshall Field's).  I tried to explain what they were but I think I succeeded only in saying they were from Chicago but really that was the main point anyway.

As going away gifts, the back office staff from work gave me chop sticks, decorative blossom tea, and cinamon flavored rice crackers.  One even made me a CD of Japanese music.  I have commented before, they were the hardest working and most dedicated staff I have seen.  I will miss watching them through my office windows as they scurry hurriedly about in that very Japanese style.  I could have easily spent a few more years in Japan but it was not meant to be.  I have a great opportunity with a good firm so back to the windy city I go.

but it can't take a full wash & dry cycle.

I've had a Timex Ironman watch for 18 years. It cost me $30 in 1990
and I've replaced the band 3 times. I hadn't seen it for the last 4
days until today while I was putting away my laundry.

The velcro strap had stuck to my gym shorts and consequently it went
through a full wash & dry cycle. I assume it was the heat of the
dryer that really did the watch in because the glass was discolored
and the buttons were cracked.

Too bad. That watch had been through a lot and deserved a more noble
death than at the hands of a dual funtion washer/dryer.

A beautiful Sunday in Tokyo, without the need to put in a 6 hour training ride or a 3 hour run, allowed me to have the about as leisurely a day as possible.  I was up very early but had to take a few phone calls for business so I wasn't out and about until 9:30.

Once out, I just wandered as I had two weekends prior.  I made my way through Midtown and eventually arrived at the National Stadium, famous for hosting the 1964 Olympic summer games.  This past Sunday, from the crowds and athletes it appeared there was a high school level track and field event taking place but I wasn't too sure because I could not read the signs.  While walking around the National Stadium, I came across a mastsuri festival that was conducted by children carrying a diminutive mikoshi (portable shrine).  Not as raucous as the adult equivalent, but very charming nonetheless.

Throughout the day, I came across quite a few matsuri underway, including one in the heart of Shibuya, another in Azabu Juban,  and finally one in Roppongi.  I suspect these are the final festvals as summers transitions to autumn.  I was amazed that the matsuri in Shibuya actually traversed the busy Shibuya crossing, forcing traffic to pause while they hoisted their mikoshi into the air and cheered from the center of the intersection.

I have mentioned this intersection before.  It's ridiculously busy.  So to see it all come to a hault was very interesting.

Here is a short movie of the matsuri I saw in Asakusa at Senso-ji earlier in the year so you can get an idea of how they typically play out.

Inspired by my wayward amble Friday night, I decided to devote Sunday to an intentional aimless walk. I followed whatever, street, path or corridor looked interesting. I new regardless of how lost I got I could get on the subway and head to whatever station on that line went to central Tokyo.

I saw lots of beautiful homes as I set out through Azabu, into a neighborhood that surrounded a cluster embassy buildings. Many of the homes in this area had beautiful trees, bushes and flowers.

As I walked further into Meguro city, I passed Tokai University and then crossed the street to watch a bunch of 4 & 5 year old kids play in a soccer game.  I wasn't really watching the game so much as I was enjoying the children shrieking and smiling, consumed by the moment, without worry or concern for anything but their game.  I envy that freedom and I think that could be part of the reason I enjoy kids so much.

When I found myself by Gotanda station, I hopped on the subway and went to Asakusa to pick up some kokeshi dolls to bring back to Chicago as souvenirs.  In Asakusa, they have rickshaws for the multitude of tourists who come to see the Senso-ji temple and the neighboring shrines.  Since I first saw them in early spring, I have wanted to be a rickshaw driver.  I think I am very well suited for the job.  So if anyone has any connections and can get me a spot for a weekend that would be great.  I think a lot of Japanese tourists would enjoy being pulled around by a gaijin with a shaved head.

From Asakusa, I boarded the subway again but this time went to Harajuku station and walked around Yoyogi-koen, one of Tokyo's largest parks.  It is a beautiful park with dense green and flowering trees.

It is ironic that such a idyllic and splendid green space is host to a chaotic social scene.  At Yoyogi-koen, there is the complete spectrum of Tokyo residents: joggers and jugglers, seniors walking their dogs, drum groups, break dancers and various rock bands, kids doing tricks on BMX bikes and skateboards, hula hoop fanantics, in addition to your typical soccer, frisbee, badminton practioners.  You name it - you can probably find it somewhere in Yoyogi-koen on the weekend.

The rain was light but consistent all weekend in Tokyo.  However, it was not enough to prevent thousands of people from flocking to the Azabu Juban neighborhood summer festival.  The festival has small performances scattered throughout the neighborhood at varying times but the true focus is the food and beverage vendors than line the main street.

Activity begins in the late morning, as vendors begin preparations to feed the lunch time crowds.  The stalls remain  busy until closing at 9 PM when everyone simply shuts down operation as if someone had flipped a switch. 

My favorite part of the summer festivals are the summer kimonos, called yukatas, that many of the Japanese women wear.  Though always beautiful, they range from simple to spectacular.  At one point, I saw one very young girl whose ability to walk must have been as new as her brightly colored yukata.  She was shuffling behind her mother, similarly adorned, and if I hadn't been stuffing my mouth with a skewer of grilled chicken I may have been able to capture a photograph.  It's a shame because that little girl was as beautiful as anything I'd ever seen.

Roppongi Hills is adjacent to the Azabu Juban and the neighborhood association was holding its' summer festival in conjunction at the Roppongi Hills Arena at Mori Tower.  In the arena an elaborate drum tower, a yagura, was built in the center of the stage to facilitate the Ropponjin Ondo performance.

The Ropponjin Ondo is an, ahem, ancient Japanese folk dance created to honor the opening of Roppongi Hills in 2003.  It seems to be the Japanese equivalent to line dancing.  Ordinarily, I don't care much for line dancing but this wasn't anything like the Hokie Pokie or some Achy Breaky Heart nonsense.  Maybe it was just the women all being dressed in yukatas and gracefully shuffling around in unison that made it a pleasant experience.

Of course, being a Japanese thing, it wouldn't be right if we all didn't conform so they were handing out instructions on how to do the dance.  It's amazing the text has survived to these modern times.  I have included a copy so we can all be ready for next year.

I love choppers.  There's a white trash streak in me that will never be eradicated regardless of how much education I receive or how much culture I absorb by traveling the world.  There is something about ripping down an open road on a motorcycle under an endless blue sky that allows you to leave a lot of your cares behind.

I also enjoy the ferocious pursuit of style exhibited in the youth of Tokyo.  Not the superficiality of it per se,  but rather the struggle to personalize, the drive to create unique identity in a culture that has a long standing tradition of homogenization.

In my glitzy upscale neighborhood I saw a conglomerate of young rebels outside the local Starbucks.  And here is how they got there...

There were fireworks over the harbor in Tokyo this past Sunday to celebrate one of the many summer festivals.  I watched them from the top of my apartment building.  Unfortunately, the wind was blowing off the water towards my location so the show was obscured by the smoke from the initial rockets.

I had not been to the roof top until then.  It is a nice garden setting.  The view even without the fireworks is nice.

 

I stood watching a dog being groomed and pampered in a Roppongi Hills dog salon after dinner tonight.  I could not believe the amount of work being done.  At one point, three women were grooming him simultaneously.  If it wasn't neutered I think it would have got a happy ending after all was said and done.

I was so impressed I made an appointment for myself for this Sunday.

It was a warm but lovely night in Tokyo.  The moon, almost full, was bright and high in the sky.  It was a nice focal point for me while on the terrace taking a conference call during dinner at Eat More Greens (my favorite vegetarian restaurant).

On the way back from dinner at I snapped my reflection in the dark lobby of my apartment building.  I think the small portions and the low fat meals are taking their toll.  At least it will be much less baggage to carry around come Ironman Wisconsin this September.  I may be under-trained but I'll be lighter.  Yes, that is my awesome retro Flash t-shirt.